Hi Marty,
Here are some ideas for the embellished bag project. I thought this might be the easiest way to get the information to you. No pesky servers complaining about file sizes, e-mails that won't let me put pictures where I want, etc. Given my lack of self promotion, very few are likely to see this, and for those that do, may they get something out of it!
Applique:
Two main options for material: Felted wool or cotton. Woven wool that has been washed/felted is typically appliqued with raw edges; just cut into your desired shape, pin it in place, and stitch around the edges. Blanket stitch is most common, but whip stitching works as do any number of embroidery stitches. More about threads below. This gives you a lot of freedom as far as shape goes.
Sounds like your group is into needle felting. I haven't cut that up and appliqued it, so I don't know how it would work. Whether it would hold its edge probably depends on the thickness, amount of felting, etc. One thing I have done is cut up needle felted pieces into specific shapes and then felted them to a background and proceeded to embroider around them.
Cotton applique expands design possibilities greatly with all the wonderful quilting prints available today. I don't know if you have a quilting stash; I do and am happy to share if you give me some idea about colors. The great thing about applique is that a little bit of fabric goes a long way.
But back to technique. A simple way to get edges turned under is to use templates. Quilting stores sell some ready made, but I think it's more fun to create your own. Joann sells material that can be cut up. Be sure to get the one that will withstand ironing. (Edit: I just checked online, and it looks like you are a long way from the closest Joann. If you go the cotton route, I can send some along with the fabric.) Here are the steps (let me know if you need pictures, I got the impression that you had an idea of how this is done already):
1. Cut your template. This will be the finished size. Avoid long, skinny points, and definitely avoid concave shapes. Leaf shapes with points at both ends are possible but challenging.
It makes life a little easier if you have an edge that will be tucked under something else. Except for circles and ovals, which are very easy.
2. Cut the fabric about 1/4" bigger than the template all around. Precision is not necessary here.
3. Put a long running stitch along the edge of the fabric - make sure it is outside the outline of the template. Whether stitching by hand or machine, be sure to leave long tails.
4. Place the template in the middle of the piece - on the wrong side - and pull the tails, gathering the stitches so that the excess fabric folds in around the template.
5. Cover the ironing board with an old towel. Put the applique wrong side up - the template will be showing. Spray some starch and press it for a couple seconds with a hot iron. Let it cool and remove the template. You'll have a nice, neat applique to pin to your purse.
6. Stitch it in place: Traditional applique strives to be invisble, with tiny stitches taking the smallest bite out of the side of the applique. You said that you have an appliquer in your office, so she can probably give you a quick demo. I've seen some modern variations: doing larger stitches that are deliberately visible, using thicker thread, doing a running stitch just inside the folded edge. The sky's the limit! The nice thing about appliqueing cotton onto felted wool is that it's rather forgiving, because the edge sinks down into the wool.
I thread my needle (a plain sewing needle, not a fat tapestry needle) with plain sewing thread and put a quilter's knot at the end. If the felted base is dense enough, you can just pull up from the back to the front and start stitching. If not, you might want to anchor the thread on the back with a couple of back stitches before you come up at the edge of the applique.
Embroidery Threads:
This has taken a bit of experimentation. Threads that show up on a cotton background can get lost on wool. Yarn is thicker but often lacks the strength to survive the abrasion that comes with moving through dense fabric for many stitches. Even wool threads for crewel embroidery can get lost unless you fiddle with them. The solution: stay with thicker threads. There's dual benefit: it will show up better, and it will fill space faster - good for the age group you're working with, yes? Perle cotton, at least a size 5 - 3 is even better if you can find it - is very good. If you use multi-strand embroidery floss, be sure to use at least three strands. If by some odd chance you happen to have some sashiko thread laying around, it works well, too.
Needles:
When embroidering with thicker thread, look for chenille needles. They have big eyes like tapestry needles but sharp points, which go through the felted base much more easily. Some needle grabbers are useful to have around. (Think miniature round rubber can openers.) If you're going to do French knots or bullion stitches, yarn darners are nice but not essential; their shape is straighter, making it easier when you pull the needle through the wrapped threads. These are all available at Joann.
Stitch Choices:
Given the age group you're working with, I'm assuming you won't be going for great intricacy. Basic chain stitches, running stitches, and herringbone stitches will get them a long way. The Zentangle idea works well here - lay down a few outlines and keep filling with doodles. Here are a couple other age-appropriate stitch ideas:
Stab stitches are a simple yet effective way to fill space.
Couching is a nice technique - lay a strand of something (yarn works well here) in the shape you want on top of the base, and then hold it in place with small stitches. You can combine different colors and different threads for interesting effects. You can create freestanding shapes - vines, stems - or nice outlines around applique. It's another one that goes fairly quickly and can pack a lot of punch - the power of line.
For pure eye candy, Sue Spargo is a real master of embellishment. I have several pictures of her beautiful work in another post.
Handles, Pockets, Closures:
My experience with felted handles/straps hasn't been great. You do seem them in patterns, so some people must be happy with them. I prefer to use cotton fabric lined with batting (sew right sides together, batting against the wrong side, and then turn right side out and topstitch). You can sew those directly to the bag or use a ring or some other connector between the strap and the bag.
A simple strap:
Sewn onto the bag:
I've also used ready made handles of leather and (sheepishly) fake stuff.
Pockets are super functional, every bag I make has them. A nice size for keys and phone is 7 1/2"W x 6 1/2" H. Here's how:
1. Cut two pieces 8 1/2"W x 7 1/2" H (assuming a half-inch seam allowance).
2. With right sides together, sew up on side, across the top, and down the other side. Leave the bottom open.
3. Clip the corners, turn right side out and press.
4. Determine where the finished bottom of the pocket should be on the purse and mark it with pins.
5. Put the pocket upside down and put the raw edge 1/2" above that marked line. Sew from marker to marker:
(I just realized that I sewed this pocket in a different way - the seam is in the middle. Sorry for the confusion. Both will work, let me know if you need more pictures.)
6. Fold the pocket up toward the top:
and pin it in place. Sew down the two sides. You may want to take a few extra stitches at the top to anchor it. If you want to get fancy, sew a line in about an inch from the side for a pen holder:
Order of Operations:
Here are some general ideas, subject of course to the specific design.
Create your felted base - a flat piece. Don't sew it together yet!!
Lay out and attach applique. Remember where your seams will be.
Embroider and embellish with beads, buttons, found objects.
Sew on pockets and handles. Depending on the bag's design, you might want to sew the pockets on before the previous step. Handles will probably be best left until after embellishment.
Attach closures if possible (depending on the design, you might have to do this after assembling the bag).
Assemble the bag/sew seams. Once you sew the seams, everything gets much more difficult to access and handle, so delay this as long as possible.
Fringe and tassels might need to wait until the bottom seam is closed.
Project Pictures:
This is a very simple bag that my friend knitted and felted. We'll put the handles, pocket, and closures on before closing up the sides. This would be a great canvas for embellishment. The plan is to have a velcro enclosure, with the horn button sewn on for decoration.
We made it adjustable using D-rings, hence the strap dangling at the side:
On the back will be a pocket made with this cute chicken fabric. Nice surprise.
Here are some additional process pictures from the bag you saw in my gallery.
Before felting. You can see the tabs on the bag and the strap, both designed to attach to a ring. I knit the purse in the round and left top and bottom open until the very end for ease of access.
Post felting:
Experimenting with basic layout:
Later on, after lots of playing:
I hope this is helpful. I could go on and on, so let me know if you need more info or have questions. Have fun and please send pictures of your projects!
Cheers,
Maureen
She believed she could so she did.
